E-bike Touring: The Good, the Bad, and the Heavy

It Ain’t Easy

1.5 kg of power

We’ve done a couple of long-distance  tours — both over 3,000 km — and a good handful in the 300–500 km range. We tour on on full suspension e-bikes, and while it’s made a world of difference to what we can do and how far we can go, it hasn’t exactly made things easy.

E-bike touring isn’t cheating, it’s adapting, but it comes with its own baggage.


The Pros: Why We Ride Electric

  • Hills and Headwinds: E-bikes take the sting out — essential when you’re no longer a spring chicken. Sure, there are a few indestructible old buggers still muscling their way up mountains at 89, and good on them. We trade-off the buzz of high achievement for gratitude for actually making it up the hill. 

  • More Distance, More Adventure: We’ve gone further and seen more because of the bikes. Routes that would have been too hard, too hilly, or just too long are now within reach.

  • No Shame in Assistance: We’re not carrying tents or stoves anymore, and we’re not trying to prove anything. We ride for joy and discovery — not for suffering. If a motor gets us there smiling, that’s a win.


The Cons: What the Brochures Don’t Mention

  • You’re Tied to Power: The battery needs a charge every night. That means no wild camping unless you carry a spare (which is heavy and still won’t get you more than a day or two).

  • Heavy Chargers, Fewer Freedoms: The charger’s a brick. We’re not hauling cooking gear, so there’s room, but the trade-offs never stop.

  • No Flying with Batteries: This one’s absolute. Airlines will not carry your e-bike battery — not in checked luggage, not in the cabin, not in a box of chocolates. You can ship it separately if you’re persistent and cashed up, but even that’s dicey.

  • Train travel is getting tighter. Cheap ebike kits badly installed can catch fire and that make train companies as nervous as airlines. Transport for London have recently banned all ebikes on their trains and others will likely follow. 
  • You Need Accommodation Every Night: And not just any accommodation. You need somewhere with power and somewhere to stash the bikes. Booking.com still doesn’t have a ‘bike-friendly’ filter, and explaining “indoor, secure, preferably not up a flight of stairs” is a conversation we’ve had too many times.


The Real Challenge: Logistics and Lifting

  • Weight Matters: An e-bike with panniers isn’t something you casually lift up steps or onto a train platform. We’re at the point where “just hoick it up there” isn’t a realistic option. Gates, stairs, steep ramps — they’re all obstacles now.

  • Planning Ahead is Non-Negotiable: Spontaneity takes a hit. We need to know where we’re sleeping, whether there’s power, how steep the access is, and whether someone’s going to have a secure place for our bikes. Not exactly the carefree ramble of years past.


So Why Do It?

Because the alternative is not doing it.

Yes, it’s heavier, more complicated, and demands more planning, but it also means we’re still out there, rolling through towns and over mountain passes, meeting people, seeing new landscapes, and collecting stories. E-bikes haven’t made it effortless — they’ve made it possible. And at our age, that’s everything.



 


Day 50 | Invercargill to Bluff

We’re not Bluffing

Date: 19 March 2024

Our last day dawned chilly with clear blue skies and we set off from the Invercargill Holiday Park at the northern end of town at our usual 9:24 (you could set your watch by it – no matter what, we nearly always hit the road at 9:24). We skirted the city via a series of parks, and a shared path down the Waihopai River, to the industrial area where we had classic Southland cheese rolls at the very good Industry Cafe. Then it was cycleway all the way to Bluff – estuaries full of birds, acres of saltmarsh, and shimmering reflections on the glistening, still water of Bluff harbour, which we suspect doesn’t happen often. Even the sewage treatment plant looked attractive.

We arrived at Stirling Point to cheers from another couple who had just arrived, also having done a modified TA, and then we all cheered the next arrivals – three young, genuine, dot-carrying brevet riders. A bit of wine and beer may have been consumed by all.

We had a bit of momentum left after 3100 km so we dropped our bags at the Captain’s Cabin, and with featherweight bikes (and battery assistance) we shot up the steepest gradient of the whole trip to the summit of Bluff Hill, where, With today’s clear sky, we had a stupendous 360° view of all of Southland and Stewart Island to the south.

Over an appropriately Southern meal of Bluff oysters, Blue Cod and chips served in paper at Stella’s, the conversation quietly changed from “well done us” to “what’s next?” I can’t wait to find out.

Supplies: Bluff 4 Square

Accommodation: Captains Cabin, Bluff

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


This map shows 70km, whereas it was really 50 km. Something strange going on here.
Total distance: 75.37 km
Max elevation: 262 m
Min elevation: -2 m
Total climbing: 673 m
Total descent: -675 m
Total time: 06:35:54
Download file: day50complete.gpx

Battery use: 48% : 300Wh



 


Day 49 | Mataura to Invercargill

Cold, wet milestones

Date: 19 March 2024

There was nothing much to see on what, on a fine day, would be a pleasant quiet back-road route, so we celebrated the twin milestones – our first rainy day, and passing the 3,000 km mark – by scoffing luke-warm Jimmy’s Pies in the shelter of a pine tree hedge. The carrot of a hot cup of tea propelled us on last leg, which was a long straight slog into our old friend the sou’wester.

A note of caution when stocking up in Invercargill – it’s one of those archaic monopolistic Trust areas where alcohol sales are restricted to far-distant bottle stores. Bloody uncivilized practice.

Supplies: Mataura and Invercargill
only

Accommodation: Invercargill Holiday Park

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 52.8 km
Max elevation: 148 m
Min elevation: 7 m
Total climbing: 458 m
Total descent: -499 m
Total time: 03:49:12
Download file: day49.gpx

Battery use: 82% | 512Wh



 


Day 48 | Tapanui to Mataura

Mataura has a waterfall, and precious little else

Date: 17 March 2024

if you find yourself travelling south by car, bike, or even motorhome, today’s route is a great way to avoid the main roads. We didn’t take photos because it was damp – not raining but close – and we had a friendly southwesterly straight from the Antarctic blowing in our face all day, but it’s a lovely route with views and history you won’t find on the main roads. SH1 between Clinton and Gore is named the Presidential Highway, a dad joke from the 80s, no more amusing now than then, and we crossed it while deviating for a warming cuppa in Gore, to fuel the battle on to Mataura.

Poor unfortunate Mataura. In the 19th century it boasted a paperworks, dairy factory and freezing works and the falls in the middle of town were beginning to become quite a tourist attraction, but they were dynamited to provide more water for the local industry.

It’s worth making the effort to walk up the other side of the river from where, with a bit of trespassing, you get a view of the river and rapids emerging from under derelict warehouses like a scene from a Mad Max movie.

More recently the town became infamous for having vast amounts of toxic waste from the Bluff Aluminium Smelter stored in the now-defunct paper mill, right on the flood-prone river. (Now removed).

Check out the photo – this could/should be a tourist attraction in an otherwise dying town.

To paraphrase Flann O’Brien’s Third Policeman; as we went upon our way I was slightly glad that I’d been there.

Supplies: Mataura 4 Square

Accommodation: Mataura Falls Hotel

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 58.53 km
Max elevation: 234 m
Min elevation: 51 m
Total climbing: 705 m
Total descent: -834 m
Total time: 04:36:02
Download file: day48.gpx

Battery use: 89% | 560Wh



 


Day 47 | Miller’s Flat to Tapanui

You call that flat??

Date: 16 March 2024

From Miller’s Flat we crossed the Clutha to backtrack to Ettrick, where we turned onto the misleadingly named Moa Flat Road. It begins with a stiff 400 m climb, and Moa Flat itself is quite lumpy, but we were more focused on the snow falling on a nearby range, giving a distinct crispness to the air. Down the other side we passed through Heriot, once thriving, now a ghost town, and Kelso, another once-busy town, now completely gone, having been abandoned following a 100-year-flood in 1978 and another even worse in 1980. The site is now noted only by some signs at the side of the road showing the flood height – well above head-level, in a very wide flat valley.

We thought we were on our own taking this route, but at Tapanui we met a guy who’d been ahead of us – also on an ebike, with two batteries and 40 kg of luggage! (He had camping gear).

We had just settled into our motel room at the pub when a knock on the door revealed another mad keen cyclist who had spotted our steeds. Paul Jesson was a Tour de France rider for one season in the late 70’s before a serious accident left him with one leg, but he went on to a very successful career as a paraplegic rider and became a great advocate for sport for the disabled. He now runs the Whitechapel Gift shop in the oldest church in Tapanui. This biking lark sure shakes out some dead-interesting trivia.

Supplies: Tapanui 4 Square
Accommodation: Forest Lodge Hotel, Tapanui

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 53.32 km
Max elevation: 519 m
Min elevation: 70 m
Total climbing: 976 m
Total descent: -868 m
Total time: 03:24:53
Download file: day47.gpx

Battery use: 73% | 455Wh



 


Day 46 | Alexandra to Miller’s Flat

Roxburgh Gorge & Clutha Gold Trails

Date: 15 March 2024
Grade: 2, 3

These trails are among my favourite great rides in New Zealand – thank you John K. The Roxburgh Gorge is accessible only via the trail, and for the middle 12 km, only by jet boat. We did the trail from each end last time, so the boat trip was a first, and it is definitely worth doing. Laurence, our driver, zig-zagged down the river showing us old gold workings and miners’ shelters – overhanging rocks with stacked-up schist walls and stone beds. Many more of these troglodyte dwellings are sadly now under water, thanks to the dam downriver.

With fresh snow on the hills above us and a freezing headwind in our faces, the thought of spending winter here chasing a hopeful fortune did not appeal.

Back on our wheels at Shingle Creek; a few nice switchback climbs and drops to finish this trail, then we crossed the Roxburgh Dam to the start of the Clutha Gold Trail, which has a much gentler mood.

We stopped at Cafe 103 in Roxburgh for an Allpress coffee and lunch, thereby avoiding a couple of showers, then carried on down the river another 20 km to a very well equipped ‘basic’ cabin at the excellent Miller’s Flat Holiday Park.

Supplies: Roxburgh

Accommodation: Miller’s Flat Holiday Park

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 77.06 km
Max elevation: 249 m
Min elevation: 71 m
Total climbing: 1084 m
Total descent: -1235 m
Total time: 07:35:33
Download file: day46.gpx

Battery use: 93% | 580Wh My back tyre had been softening and was much flatter than I thought, creating quite a lot of drag.



 


Day 45 | Cromwell to Alexandra

The Dunstan Trail

Date: 12 March 2024
Grade 2,3

After a brief pilgrimage to Cromwell’s industrial area to pick up a couple of Sanga’s Pies, at Bannockburn we rejoined the Dunstan Trail, which we did last year in brilliant sunshine. Today it was lightly overcast so we didn’t linger, although it would be a crime not to stop frequently to appreciate the raw, brutal, and beautiful landscape close up. It’s certainly popular – there were about 15 bikes parked at Carrick Vineyard when we stopped for an excellent coffee with the best view ever, and Sounds2Sounds riders were going the other way on their seriously impressive ride.

It’s a great trail with a good surface – mostly grade 2 with just enough grade 3 (narrow blind corners around bluffs with nasty drops on the outside) to give a real sense of adventure. SH8, just across the water, was very busy, ha ha.

At Cold Stew Flat we just had to stop and eat our now cool Holy Smoke (steak and smoked cheese) pies and the judges decision is final. Sangas and Clocktower Cafe are equal first in all New Zealand and in a league of their own – we’ve tried them all.

We’re having a last couple of lay-days at Mark and Libby’s beautiful house near Alexandra, with fab views of the starkly clear but distant ranges (stop me if I’m going on too much about the light down here).

Supplies: No problems. Cromwell, Clyde and Alexander have everything.

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 52.2 km
Max elevation: 332 m
Min elevation: 147 m
Total climbing: 916 m
Total descent: -900 m
Total time: 05:16:21
Download file: day45.gpx

Battery use: 71% | 445Wh



 


Day 44 | Hawea to Cromwell

Otago light

Date: 11 March 2024
Grade: 3/4

From Hawea we broke away from the Tour Aotearoa route to follow the Clutha for a while, and to visit friends near Alexandra.

The Hawea River track was our first off-road biking since Ross – 400 km of SH6 with mostly light and considerate traffic.  We let some air out of the tyres for extra grip, softened the suspension and had a 20 km blast on the well-maintained single and double track.

We stopped at the Pembroke Patisserie, Albert Town, for the World’s Best pastry and damn fine Allpress coffee, then took the Upper Clutha Track down the river. The other option is the Newcastle on the north bank. Both are graded 3/4, but having done them previously, we knew that the Newcastle is a bit too sporting for loaded bikes.

South of Luggate, we emerged onto SH8, and found it to be a very different beast from SH6. A narrow shoulder and a headwind didn’t help our mood, but the Otago light on the Pisa Range made enduring and dodging the rather rude and rapid traffic worthwhile.

From Pisa Moorings – a surprisingly attractive lakeside development – the Dunstan Trail, smooth gravel, flat, and wide, hugs the shore for the last 18 km to Cromwell. Our AirBnB turned out to be just across the road from our favourite Cromwell fruit store, Webbs, so we went shopping.

Supplies: Cromwell has everything you could need

Accommodation: An Air BnB that I forgot as soon as I left

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 73.75 km
Max elevation: 373 m
Min elevation: 196 m
Total climbing: 935 m
Total descent: -1099 m
Total time: 06:04:14
Download file: day44.gpx

Battery use: 88% | 550Wh The bit of MTBing and a headwind in the last stretch took its toll



 


Day 43 – Makarora to Hawea

Hello Otago

Date: 10 March 2024

An easy day today – only 50 km to Hawea, and, to paraphrase the late great John Clarke, with a stiff nor’wester up our date.

Makarora marks a sudden and dramatic change from the West Coast to Otago, where bush-clad valleys give way to clear, high, craggy mountains and lakes are done differently.  Instead of being cosily surrounded by bush, they are opened up to the sky and framed by wide pastures and high ranges. This road follows two of the best.

It’s a bit discombobulating to bike along with the lovely Lake Wanaka on your right for 20 km and then, half a km over ‘The Neck’, you bike another 20 km in the same direction with even lovelier Lake Hawea on your left. It’s a stunning introduction to Otago and is a hint of what is to come.

The Camp – Hawea is right on the lake edge, and one of us had a (very short) swim. The camp is making an effort to be a destination, with a food cart and live music some nights, and luxury glamping options. Our cheap and nicely styled (on the outside) cabin is fine for us though, and we ate our pizza there with the muted music drifting over to us from a decent distance.

Supplies: Hawea Store

Accommodation: The Camp – Hawea

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.
https://www.relive.cc/view/v36AGMK87Gv


Total distance: 48.62 km
Max elevation: 451 m
Min elevation: 285 m
Total climbing: 720 m
Total descent: -682 m
Total time: 03:09:18
Download file: day43.gpx

Battery use: 48% | 310Wh