Day 50 | Invercargill to Bluff

We’re not Bluffing

Date: 19 March 2024

Our last day dawned chilly with clear blue skies and we set off from the Invercargill Holiday Park at the northern end of town at our usual 9:24 (you could set your watch by it – no matter what, we nearly always hit the road at 9:24). We skirted the city via a series of parks, and a shared path down the Waihopai River, to the industrial area where we had classic Southland cheese rolls at the very good Industry Cafe. Then it was cycleway all the way to Bluff – estuaries full of birds, acres of saltmarsh, and shimmering reflections on the glistening, still water of Bluff harbour, which we suspect doesn’t happen often. Even the sewage treatment plant looked attractive.

We arrived at Stirling Point to cheers from another couple who had just arrived, also having done a modified TA, and then we all cheered the next arrivals – three young, genuine, dot-carrying brevet riders. A bit of wine and beer may have been consumed by all.

We had a bit of momentum left after 3100 km so we dropped our bags at the Captain’s Cabin, and with featherweight bikes (and battery assistance) we shot up the steepest gradient of the whole trip to the summit of Bluff Hill, where, With today’s clear sky, we had a stupendous 360° view of all of Southland and Stewart Island to the south.

Over an appropriately Southern meal of Bluff oysters, Blue Cod and chips served in paper at Stella’s, the conversation quietly changed from “well done us” to “what’s next?” I can’t wait to find out.

Supplies: Bluff 4 Square

Accommodation: Captains Cabin, Bluff

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


This map shows 70km, whereas it was really 50 km. Something strange going on here.
Total distance: 75.37 km
Max elevation: 262 m
Min elevation: -2 m
Total climbing: 673 m
Total descent: -675 m
Total time: 06:35:54
Download file: day50complete.gpx

Battery use: 48% : 300Wh



 


Day 49 | Mataura to Invercargill

Cold, wet milestones

Date: 19 March 2024

There was nothing much to see on what, on a fine day, would be a pleasant quiet back-road route, so we celebrated the twin milestones – our first rainy day, and passing the 3,000 km mark – by scoffing luke-warm Jimmy’s Pies in the shelter of a pine tree hedge. The carrot of a hot cup of tea propelled us on last leg, which was a long straight slog into our old friend the sou’wester.

A note of caution when stocking up in Invercargill – it’s one of those archaic monopolistic Trust areas where alcohol sales are restricted to far-distant bottle stores. Bloody uncivilized practice.

Supplies: Mataura and Invercargill
only

Accommodation: Invercargill Holiday Park

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 52.8 km
Max elevation: 148 m
Min elevation: 7 m
Total climbing: 458 m
Total descent: -499 m
Total time: 03:49:12
Download file: day49.gpx

Battery use: 82% | 512Wh



 


Day 48 | Tapanui to Mataura

Mataura has a waterfall, and precious little else

Date: 17 March 2024

if you find yourself travelling south by car, bike, or even motorhome, today’s route is a great way to avoid the main roads. We didn’t take photos because it was damp – not raining but close – and we had a friendly southwesterly straight from the Antarctic blowing in our face all day, but it’s a lovely route with views and history you won’t find on the main roads. SH1 between Clinton and Gore is named the Presidential Highway, a dad joke from the 80s, no more amusing now than then, and we crossed it while deviating for a warming cuppa in Gore, to fuel the battle on to Mataura.

Poor unfortunate Mataura. In the 19th century it boasted a paperworks, dairy factory and freezing works and the falls in the middle of town were beginning to become quite a tourist attraction, but they were dynamited to provide more water for the local industry.

It’s worth making the effort to walk up the other side of the river from where, with a bit of trespassing, you get a view of the river and rapids emerging from under derelict warehouses like a scene from a Mad Max movie.

More recently the town became infamous for having vast amounts of toxic waste from the Bluff Aluminium Smelter stored in the now-defunct paper mill, right on the flood-prone river. (Now removed).

Check out the photo – this could/should be a tourist attraction in an otherwise dying town.

To paraphrase Flann O’Brien’s Third Policeman; as we went upon our way I was slightly glad that I’d been there.

Supplies: Mataura 4 Square

Accommodation: Mataura Falls Hotel

These videos are best viewed on a computer screen. Turning your phone sideways helps.


Total distance: 58.53 km
Max elevation: 234 m
Min elevation: 51 m
Total climbing: 705 m
Total descent: -834 m
Total time: 04:36:02
Download file: day48.gpx

Battery use: 89% | 560Wh