A very different Italy
Date: May 16
When we decided to start this trip in Florence, we somehow failed to notice the Apennines standing between us and the Adriatic. Once we did spot them, we made another clever decision: to plot a gravel bike route to avoid the main roads. A great idea – until it wasn’t.
Leaving Prato after a circuit of the old wall, we headed up a long valley, crossed a rather deep ford which should have warned us, and followed a lovely path through the forest. As we climbed, the track became rougher, then really rough – and after 10 km and a hard-won 300 metres of vertical, the gravel had turned into sharp, jagged lumps threatening to shred our tyres. When we startled a deer in the undergrowth, we realised we were too gloriously isolated – so we turned back and rejoined the main (and only) road over the pass.
It was narrow, with no shoulder, but the drivers were respectful and gave us room and we made it to Barberino di Mugello in one piece. The final push to our B&B was just a short distance from town – but included another 150 metres of vertical, with slopes of up to 20%. My battery gave up the ghost right at the front gate.
I’m reading Eric Newby’s Love and War in the Apennines, and I reckon he had it easy – no luggage, no heavy e-bike, and only a few Germans to worry about. These hills are vicious.
Accomodation: Il Podere di Massi
Great host, nice view from room, bathroom down stairs, shared kitchen, happy to put bikes under cover
Max elevation: 503 m
Min elevation: 36 m
Total climbing: 1291 m
Total descent: -848 m
Total time: 07:12:53
Battery use: 100%
Hi you two,
I’m just about to do a major catch-up on your posts, and already I’m chuckling – talk of shredded tyres, a 20% uphill and a flat battery at the end of it. The joys of cycle touring. No mention of large, saliva dripping rabid dogs – so that’s a positive. I’m looking forward to reading on.