A Week or Two in the Manawatū
February 2026
In the past, the Manawatū has mostly been drive-through or fly-over country for us – flat, apparently featureless, and home to Palmerston North (famous for making anywhere else look attractive) and Bulls, the pun capital of New Zealand (Coffee on the Moove and toilets labelled Relieve-a-bull).
When we biked through on our Tour Aotearoa ride in the summer of 23/24 the route took us on remote tracks through untouched parts of the Whanganui National Park, and down into the very charming river city of Whanganui. The next section was northern Manawatu and the Eastern Ruahines which are neither flat nor boring, however for logistical reasons at the time we missed out a part of that route. We therefore decided this summer, while travelling in the Egg, our faithful motorhome, to do an overnighter to plug that gap.
Ashhurst
Once renowned for its concentration of fundamentalist churches, Ashhurst is actually a pleasant small town with an excellent council-run campground. It has free, clean hot showers and powered sites at $10 per head per night – a perfect place to leave the Egg overnight (especially with buggered solar). I’ll always remember it for the branchling tūī.
I learnt that word after sharing a photo and video of a baby tui with the Birds of NZ Facebook group, hoping someone local could check out the chick we rescued after we left. It was sitting on the ground at the edge of the campground road, having clearly fallen from the tree overhead, while its concerned parents called from above. I tried to encourage it to move to a more sheltered spot without touching it, but after three or four short attempts at flight it gave up.
Branchlings are youngsters that have left the nest but haven’t yet grown their tail feathers. They hop around on branches, still being fed by their parents for a few days until they fledge properly. I put my hand in front of it and it climbed onto my finger, letting me carry it closer to some bush where, I was assured by proper bird people, its parents would teach it to camouflage itself for a few days. We have plenty of tūī at home and I’ve watched fledglings grow and return year after year, but I’d never seen one this young.
Apiti and Makoura Lodge – Pohangina Valley
The Tour Aotearoa route between Apiti and Ashhurst had changed in 2026 due to road closures on the original line, so we rode it in reverse – up Spur Road, up Zigzag Road, and more up Ridge Road. We stuffed ourselves with roadside blackberries and wowed at the expansive rural views across to the Ruahines.
The roads were mostly quiet gravel (we saw three cars, two cyclists, and a walker), but there was more climbing than we’d bargained for – which is to say, we’re out of shape – and we very nearly flattened our batteries. We recharged both ourselves and the bikes at the Apiti Tavern, where we were pleasantly surprised by excellent pub dinners of smoked wild pork burger, and pork belly.
With replenished batteries, we rode a few more kilometres to the very comfortable Makoura Lodge, perched high on a narrow plateau between two spectacular gorges.
For the return ride we had two choices – the flat, tar-sealed Pohangina East Road or the hillier, gravelled Pohangina Road, potentially impassable. Reassured by the Kennett brothers, we chose the latter, of course. As on the previous day, traffic was minimal, the views excellent (though sadly no blackberries), and we discovered Totara Reserve – a perfect, quiet camping spot by the river. It would be very easy to lose a week or two in this neck of the woods.
Flying Fox
Back in Whanganui for a few days to get the solar sorted, we decided to fulfil another ambition and stay at the Flying Fox, up the Whanganui River towards Pipiriki. It’s an easy 50 km ride – rural at first, then for the last 10–15 km right inside the National Park.
The Flying Fox is accessible only by, you guessed it, a flying fox across the river. Big enough for two people and their luggage, it takes about three minutes to cross to what’s rated as a mid-range hotel but is really a collection of rustic, self-contained cottages, all solar powered. Hosts Kelly and Jane are friendly and laid back, and make it feel as though you’re staying in a hand-built house in a friend’s back yard.
We cooked our own meal in the kitchenette rather than use their catering; I grabbed a beer from the fridge in the main house (honesty box), and next time we’ll stay a couple of nights. There will be a next time, because the Tui Cottage is one of the four best places we have ever stayed anywhere in the world. List available on request, but the common factor is a total lack of pretension.
Max elevation: 556 m
Min elevation: 74 m
Total climbing: 1334 m
Total descent: -1043 m
Total time: 08:02:50
Max elevation: 462 m
Min elevation: 58 m
Total climbing: 787 m
Total descent: -1070 m
Total time: 04:44:51
Max elevation: 176 m
Min elevation: 2 m
Total climbing: 656 m
Total descent: -619 m
Total time: 08:03:50
Thank you Steve, just a wonderful Blog, good stories and interesting nooks and crannies traversed. Love that little Tui. You were lucky, when travelling to the SI with our bikes we’d camped at Mangaweka and we started our Kennett Bros heartland rides. One day I’d ride, next Mike. We’d relied on food at Apiti. Unlike you, the Tavern was closed. Sad. We only did bits of heartland rides when the areas looked interesting and appeared to have little traffic. Great post.