New Brooks B17 Saddle

Brooks again, of course

The old Flyer had almost become uncomfortable, and I had wanted to replace it ages ago before we did the Europe trip but it was invisible to my bum, so it stayed on the bike. Until I noticed it, and then …

Update: First ride, 56k first 40 were OK and I was glad to get off at the far end and to sit on the ferry home. It feels very hard and slippery, which I recall the Flyer felt like when brand new, and I can feel the bumps which will mould into my shape over the next few rides.
Thank goodness for padded shorts, well thank GroundEffect anyway.

2x to 1x conversion

Simplifying my drive train

WZ2358 is the product code at The Bolt Shop in Archers Rd for their 3/8 x 5/8 x 16g Flat washer steel zinc, recorded here in case I need to do it again, and because they were as exact a fit for the longer chainring bolts I needed to let me move the new chain ring over to improve the chainline …

OK, One thing at a time.


The Shimano Deore XT front derailleur was a dog on my bike, even though Jill has an identical bike and hers works perfectly. 
Mine once needed to be physically ground to shape to let it move far enough to move the chain to the granny gear, and it would never stay adjusted for long, even when I did manage to get it working. It didn’t matter mostly, because I spend far more of my time in the high gears anyway, so I decided to scrap the whole thing.

Before - the new ring has to be positioned between the two existing rings.
I rode a few 100 km using only the large ring to test the idea and it worked fine with a 38 tooth ring at the front, although very noisy in the lower gears, so I looked for my options. Since I already had an FSA crankset with a 104BCD spider, I opted for the custom made FSA Megatooth wide-narrow 38 tooth, but it would need to be offset towards the centerline of the bike, midway between the two rings in the original crankset..


For my set up I needed the slightly hard to find BBT18 toolto remove the crank set, so that I could get to the chainring bolts with my

BBB BoldGrip Chainring Nut Wrench BTL32L from Wiggle.

Part of me quite likes owning tools that are specifically for one job only.


Our bikes have Boost axles so the chainline needed to be a few mm further from the center line than with a regular axle, 52mm according to , so I had to hunt down the above-mentioned washers. It only took an hour or of trial and error to get it right, 3 on the inside and one on the outside because the bolt was 1mm too long. The Ask A Bike Mechanic group on FB assured me this was going to be OK, but I’m carrying around that little wrench in my toolkit for the next 1000km or so.

3 washers on the outside
1 on the outside


Easy peasy

They’re not meant to be used with tubes

Thus chided the very patient Elisabeth Foot from Schwalbe when I had complained that my “bullet proof” G-One All rounds were in fact thorn magnets.  She also recommended Big Ben Plus or Marathon Plus MTB, but both came in only 2 inch versions and I wanted at least the 2.25″ our  bikes came with, as well as the lowest rolling resistance I could get.


When I got home from our 3 months around very mixed surfaces all over Europe I decided to give tubeless a go.  We had been using Schwalbe Rocket Rons and Racing Ralphs, and had about 8-10 flats and had replaced one tyre so it was time to try something new. I’m still not sure that the G-Ones 60-584 (27.5×2.35) are going to be the all-rounders I need, but I have them, they are Tubeless ready, or Tubeless Easy as Schwalbe brands them, so they will do for starters.


However, Orange sealant proved to be the first stumbling block, along with Gorilla Tape, both highly recommended by various Facebook groups, and both unobtainable in NZ!  What’s the point in luxuriating in Sunday shopping hours if you can’t buy anything except by shopping online, usually from those closed-on-Sunday European emporiums. By the time they had arrived I had seen enough youtube videos to be an expert, although I was fully prepared to visit my LBS to have them do it properly after I had failed, so I launched into installing them.

The best advice gleaned from all those videos was

  • remove the valve core before seating the tyre to allow for greater airflow
  • give the rim a quick light spray of silicon lube before pumping which allowed the tyre to seat well without even that satisfying pop
  • save  a few bucks by cutting a valve insert out of an old tube instead of buying new custom one. (not the best idea it turned out)  

The first attempt went well.  New G-Ones are devilishly hard to get onto the rims, they seem to be tighter than any other tyre I’ve fitted, but once on, and without sealant to begin with, they eased up onto the rims with a nice tight fit after the recommended quick light spray of silicon. I have a good pump (Topeak Joe Blow) and even though I’m no longer young and fit I could seat these big balloons  without raising a sweat.  I left them overnight, noticed that one was deflating slowly and worked out that it was my chopped down valve insert leaking, gave it a 50km test run to make sure, then replaced it with a proper one.  That’s a messy job with the sealant splashing everywhere but luckily it cleans up well with a damp rag, and the properly made insert works a treat.



August, 2019

After slipping around a bit on the mud and grass one day last week I decided to change back to the knobblies.  The Rocket Ron I had on the front had been hammered by thorns during our tour around Europe last year and it had one hole bigger than a matchstick, one ordinary hole and several small leaks around the sidewalls.  Orange Sealant worked exactly as it should, it fizzed and bubbled and needed an pump up a couple of times but then it settled down with every leak well and truly plugged, and I added an extra squirt the next day and they haven’t even gone down at all in a week.  I’ve got a Racing Ralph on the rear now, and even though the knob in the middle are mostly gone, they make a helluva whine on the road after the luxury quiet hiss from the G-Ones. Noticeably a bit slower too, but not enough to worry me.

The old stuff was dead easy to remove from the tyres too, because Orange forms a skin right around the tyre, and it all just peeled off in sheets.  I haven’t used other sealants, but I’ve seen photos of how they ball up and form big lumps, but there was nothing like that.  I probably could have left it on, except for the rims which I would have had to clean carefully before re-installing, and I’ll do that in future. I left it on the wheel rims though, figuring it would help keep things airtight.


Too brief, so friendly


I’ve given up trying to keep maps. The GPS logger wasn’t behaving and Croatia has infected me with a very comfortable lack of organisation and orderliness.


Some friends on Facebook have recently accused us of being fantastically organized . If that were true we would have known that Croatia does not use the Euro before we crossed the border. We might have have known that to visit the museum in the salt pans on the border that you need to have your passport because we might have known that there is border control between Slovenia and Croatia, and that the road to the museum takes off between the two passport points. We might not have learned that the traffic on their main roads is deadly, but that the people are the friendliest and most generous you could find anywhere once they step out of their cars.


However travelling our way, finding out where we will be staying a couple of hours before we arrive at the most, quite often sorting the details of the route as we arrive at the next village, is the most rewarding and entertaining way to get around this country. As one recently returned refugee told us, “ I lived for years in Holland and I couldn’t stand the level of organisation. I came back because I love the improvisation of life in Croatia.”


Organised travellers would not have stumbled upon the stone shelters known here as kazun, utterly similar to the borries we chanced upon in Provence, they would be unlikely to find the Roman pottery and villa ruins that were open to walk through on the almost unmarked trail around part of the coast, or the small Roman theatre in Pula because they would have paid to go into the coliseum (we didn’t) and not made the effort to go  the top of the hill, or if they had, would have paid to go into the castle there rather than find their way around the back of it. Improvisation rules.


We did have an itinerary. Down the coast to Pula, ferry hop down the islands to Korcula, hang out there until it was time to get a ferry to Italy’s east coast, then make our way up to Venice where we could pack up the bikes, send the batteries back to Cologne where they could be included in the next shipment to NZ, and catch our flight.


Guess what? A lot of the ferries don’t take bikes and they had stopped running in early October anyway. The weather became less bike friendly and the traffic had terrified us, so all our planning came to nothing luckily, because we decided to hole up somewhere attractive instead of Pula, found ourselves at Bale up in the hills on the back roads, an untouched old stone village with the world’s most generous hostess (free second night, free dinner, snacks and even stored our bikes in her tiny living space to keep them safe and dry), and were treated to a spontaneous concert on the street by Klapa Valdibora, an a capella group of blokes who had recently won a competition in Paris.


We biked up through the smallest, quietest roads we could find for a day or two to pick up the Parenzana bike trail which follows an old rail track to Trieste, soaked up some more Croatian style friendship and generosity, and finally hopped back into Slovenia to wait out the next bout of rotten weather before making our way back into storm beleaguered Italy. Venice has just has the worst floods since 1966.


Plans are good, itineraries are useful I’m sure but they wouldn’t have helped us discover a real Croatia that exists not very far under the cloak of seaside tourism.



This will be my last post on this trip, I suspect. It’s too hard on a phone to get everything right, copying and pasting and correcting and editing take forever, and really, I’d rather just keep on riding. No worries, I’ll be home in a couple of weeks and I’ll update the Croatia page then.


We escaped Trieste and it’s  Bacalore festival crowd as quickly as possible, and had a scenically hilly ride over to the Slovenian border of only a few k’s away


and into what is often described as a stunning coastline. If you like resort towns. Luckily we had chosen Piran – the most untouched tourist town I’ve seen. Narrow cobblestone streets, some almost too narrow for our handlebars, and the locals still live there, unlike all the other historic centers which empty out at night leaving tourists looking for local flavour. We stayed in a hostel in a typical Piran house with steep stairs and a rooftop terrace, walked around in the evening and biked Up into the hills during the day. These guys know how to do “up”!

The “up” part – to Ljubjana in 2 days.

Big hills. 550m from sea level, then down to 350 back to 700 before a final 20k on narrow main road with NZ style drivers. Not very pleasant. I was buggered when we got to Postonja because I had to seriously ration the battery use, 98% used today. We’ll come back this way because of the castle and the Skocjan caves which I hear are much better, less Disneyed than the Postonja ones.

Total distance: 73.44 km
Max elevation: 673 m
Min elevation: 53 m
Total climbing: 1291 m
Total descent: -740 m
Total time: 08:04:31


More “up” parts

Up and then down to Ljubjana. We thought we were outsmarting Mapy when it took a route us over a mountain and we spotted the road that skirted around it, but the 900m part of the ride was the town on the other side anyway. Still, lovely to ride through villages only 100m apart sometimes, and the drop down to the plains was worth all the effort.

V cheap Airbnb in Ljubjana, and the owner drove us into the center of town where there were 100s of bars and restaurants full of locals enjoying the unseasonably balmy evening. We walked for ages looking for some local flavour with less than €20 mains, and finally found it at the end of the Street, Druga Violina – Google it and come here just to go there. Roast chestnuts on the street for an entree, and Jill had the darkest chocolate ice cream ever as we walked home.

Total distance: 69.04 km
Max elevation: 931 m
Min elevation: 198 m
Total climbing: 1541 m
Total descent: -1738 m
Total time: 06:36:12



Bled day 1

We took the train to Bled, the truly lovely lake featuring in every tourist publication, because we didn’t want a 2 hour ride across the smoggy plains followed by a heavy climb through more of what we had already seen. Found an excellent apartment 3km outside town and scored the late afternoon sun for an introductory ride around the lake taking dozens of cliche shots.


Bled day 2 Bohinjsko lake

30k out of Bled is another stunner of a lake, but half the ride is on a two lane, no shoulder road which scared the hell out of us. Real bike tourers might think it’s ok, but we’re only juniors. B. Lake is well worth the ride, one of the prettiest things ever, but even better was the half of the ride off the road through untouched villages where locals we’re just living their daily lives, living in what looked to be hundreds of years old houses sometimes, although many had neat stacks of timber seasoning beside the also near piles of firewood, indicating their love of rustic charm might be wearing thin.

Bled day 3

The Julian Alps part. Actually yesterday’s lake is part of them but today’s ride up one valley and down the next is truly Alpine although without the heavy climbing. We went to the far end of the road on the southern part of the loop, deer on the road, sun rising over mount trigav to light the 1000m cliffs full of autumn colours on the north, and returned along the northern valley which we shared with mototrways, rail and ndless industry, although mostly on a separate trail. We found our way to the far end of the famous vintgar gorge so that we would only have to walk one way, and ignored the no bikes signs which was a big mistake and a week later my back is still complaining. Lots of steps, lots of passages of narrow suspended bridges and lots of tourists who were very nice to us but we were still a bloody nuisance, and I didn’t enjoy it as much as it deserved.

Last 2 days

Train back to Postojna because it was getting seriously cold. Checked out the Predjama castle (ok, but if you’ve seen a photo it’s enough and we didn’t go inside) and sprinted to the Skocjam caves which were definitely worth the effort. It’s a Very Big Hole.

The next day we visited the other major Slovenian attraction, Lipica where the original Lippanzer horses gave been bred for about 400 years, and as a non-horsey person I loved it, then a final downhill to Kopec for a last night in this country.

It feels like a place that’s on the brink of being killed by tourism. It’s well on the way already in the major spots but it doesn’t take much effort to find the real country, the people we met were all lovely, the drivers, while nowhere near as considerate as their northern neighbors were at least mostly quite considerate and I reckon if you’re reading this and have a bike that you should give it a go sooner rather than later. I’d love to have a look at the Eastern parts sometime soon.